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Hydrafacials, Diamond Glow, Glo2facials and Why I’m Not a Fan.

What is a Facial?

Facials are typically performed by estheticians and include multiple steps like skin cleansing, exfoliation, steam, extractions, masks, massage and hydration. The results depend on the products used and the skill of the esthetician performing the treatment. Think of them as a massage for your face, lifting and relaxing it, improving your complexion through increased blood flow and superficial exfoliation. In recent years, more and more technology has been added to facials. Let’s review three of the most common technologies and the pros and cons of each. 

Hydrafacial 

A Hydrafacial refers to a type of facial that is performed with a specific device that is made by Hydrafacial, LLC. The Hydrafacial handpiece uses a water ‘vortex’ jet and vacuum to remove dead skin, clear pores, and apply various treatment serums.  

What Happens During a Hydrafacial?

A Hydrafacial is typically performed in a treatment room by an esthetician. It is a comfortable 30 to 45 minute procedure. Learn more here: 

 

The Key Steps of a Hydrafacial

• Cleanse and Peel:  The esthetician typically starts by washing your face with a gentle cleanser. That is rinsed off and then a series of chemical exfoliants are applied. First, a proprietary blend (Activ-4™) containing several ingredients including urea, lactic acid, and glucosamine is applied. Second, a proprietary combination (GlySal™) of glycolic acid and salicylic acid is then applied. These chemical exfoliants help prepare the skin for the next step. Of note, the GlySal liquid comes in 3 different strengths.  
• Extract and Hydrate: This involves using the water vortex jet simultaneously with a vacuum to remove the water and impurities as it moves along the skin. It all collects into a little clear cup, and you can actually see all the impurities, dead skin and sebum during the treatment. The water jet functions as a weak dermabrasion. At this point you can also upgrade to include targeted serums advertised to help you achieve your skin goal, such as reducing hyperpigmentation, dull skin, or enlarged pores. 
• Fuse and Protect: This typically includes massaging in a custom blend of peptides, antioxidants and possibly hyaluronic acid. It may also include applying sunscreen and a moisturizer. 

What Does a Hydrafacial Do For The Skin?

A Hydrafacial is marketed to improve acne and fine wrinkles, calm inflammation and decrease hyperpigmentation. In my experience it is the most helpful for temporarily smoothing texture and clearing pores.

How Often Should You Get a Hydrafacial?

Rarely. I never do. 

Hydrafacials use a water jet to physically remove dead skin and congestion from the skin. Think of it as power washing your skin. At the same time it washes away the skin oils and can leave the skin feeling dried out. This technology is good for congestion and blackheads and smooths superficial texture. It is fine for active acne but not a miracle worker. It does not do much for the active lesions but by unclogging pores it can help prevent further breakouts. For most people they leave your skin feeling dried out and sensitive. This is more common when active serums are used. In general, I'm not a big fan of targeted serums or boosters. Some are better than others but using them after the skin barrier is stripped often leads to too much getting into the skin causing irritation. I have seen some terrible reactions. 

Who Should Not Get a Hydrafacial?

No one needs to get a hydrafacial, but it can be more harmful to some than others. Individuals with active skin inflammation or a damaged skin barrier should refrain.  Also, if you have an allergy to shellfish that causes skin rash (glucosamine is an ingredient in one of the serums) you should let the provider know. Being on an anticoagulant like aspirin or plavix also increases the risk of bruising/hickey with the vacuum.

How Much Does a Hydrafacial Cost?

$200-300

Diamond Glow Facials

Diamond Glow is an exfoliating facial developed by Allergan. It is basically microdermabrasion, meaning physical exfoliation of the top layer of the skin with a diamond tip. It also has suction to help with extractions and customizable Skinmedica (also an Allergen company) serums to use after. Some find it less drying than using water like in a Hydrafacial, but you need an experienced facialist because over physical exfoliation happens causing dry, irritated skin. 

What Happens During a Diamond Glow Facial?

Whereas most facials require the esthetician to push down onto the skin with equal amounts of pressure, the Diamond Glow uses vacuum to pull the skin into the device, and then the diamond tipped device does the exfoliation via microdermabrasion. Different vacuum settings can make the facial more or less aggressive. 

The Key Steps of a Diamond Glow Facial

The esthetician will first evaluate your skin and select the appropriate diamond tip exfoliator (there are six to choose from) and vacuum settings. Following this, you’ll receive a gentle cleanse before the applicator tip and vacuum is applied. The esthetician will then perform sweeps across your face with the device, using the grit of the diamond in conjunction with the vacuum to exfoliate the skin. 

Following this, serums are ‘infused’ with a wand that applies some pressure to try to increase delivery into the skin. Some estheticians then offer add-ons such as red light or LED therapy to help calm the skin. 

What Does a Diamond Glow Facial Do For The Skin?

It is designed to smooth the skin via this gentle exfoliation, cleanse pores, and make skin brighter with minimal downtime. 

How Often Should You Get a Diamond Glow Facial?

Occasionally if you have thick oily, resilient skin. Otherwise avoid. 

Who Should Not Get a Diamond Glow Facial?

Individuals that are dealing with active skin inflammation or a damaged skin barrier should hold off on any type of facial, including Diamond Glow. 

How Much Does a Diamond Glow Facial cost?

$150-300 per treatment

Glo2Facials 

Glo2Facial, which is offered by Geneo, relies on using oxygen and ultrasound. It can also be done on parts of the body other than the face. It is offered in seven variations (OxyPods) that are targeted for specific skin problems.

What Happens During a Glo2Facial?

Your esthetician will start with a gentle cleansing of your face to remove oils and any debris or dirt. Then, Genio Gel Primer is applied to the skin. The wand is then fitted with the appropriate OxyPod and applied over the designated area that still has the Primer in place. This triggers a foaming reaction that is designed to gently exfoliate. In theory, this process is supposed to ‘pull oxygen to the surface of the skin’ to optimize absorption of nutrients and antioxidants.  

The skin is then cleaned off and a serum corresponding to the OxyPod is applied. An ultrasound wand is then used to try to improve penetration of the serum into the skin. For the final step, more serum is applied and ‘Neo-massage’ is performed to further try to detoxify and stimulate lymphatic drainage from the skin. 

 

Key Steps of a Glo2Facial

How Often Should You Get a Glo2Facial?

Not needed, could be a fun spa day if you are able to avoid irritation.

Who Should Not Get a Glo2Facial?

Individuals that are dealing with active skin inflammation or a damaged skin barrier should hold off on any type of facial

How Much Does a Glo2Facial Cost?

$175-250 for the face, but can go up from there if other body parts are included. 

Take Home Point

My recommendation is for most people-- you do not need any of these if you are good at your skin care routine at home. If you want immediate smooth skin and empty pores, it is ok to try one out, but consider skipping the booster step and always follow with a well-formulated hydrating, hypoallergenic face cream afterwards to take care of your smoother, but now more fragile skin. Avoid actives on your skin like vitamin C or retinol until your skin barrier feels normal again. 

And remember, no matter what we are told, a single facial treatment will only provide very temporary benefits at best. To really build collagen, fight brown, and maintain a smooth texture you have to give your skin what it needs day in and day out. Real results take time and consistency.

To learn more about hydrafacials, check out my recent feature in Cosmoplitan - "Testing, Testing: A Beauty Editor's Review of the Hydrafacial."

 

These recommendations are not sponsored. They are the result of Dr. Heather D. Rogers, MD evidence-based research and extensive clinical experience. 

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