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Meet Bakuchiol, the Better Retinol Alternative for Sensitive Skin

 

A night turnover treatment is essential for keeping skin beautiful. These powerful serums can help reduce wrinkles, improve tone, correct sun damage, smooth skin’s texture, and even target acne. They work by encouraging skin cell turnover, meaning they speed the transition from old skin cells to new, giving skin a brighter, smoother appearance. There are many different types of night turnover treatments, each with their own set of benefits and potential risks. In this blog, I dive into the three main types of night turnover treatments: Retinoids, Bakuchiol, and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).

Retinoids 

Anyone who has had acne or is interested in slowing the signs of aging has heard about retinoids…be it prescription tretinoin or over-the-counter retinol. These vitamin A derivatives are well-studied and proven to boost cell turnover, correct sun damage, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. However, there are also downsides. Retinoids can be irritating to the skin and become less effective with sun or air exposure. They’re also not recommended for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding due to the association of birth defects with high vitamin A levels when taken orally.

What are Retinoids?

In 1943, the first study on retinoic acid for acne treatment was published. Retinoic acid, a derivative of vitamin A, was groundbreaking. Since then, numerous topical vitamin A formulations have been developed, collectively known as retinoids. Here is a breakdown of the main retinoids used in skincare:

• Retinyl Palmitate (Least Strong): This needs conversion to retinol, then retinaldehyde, and finally retinoic acid to be active in the skin. Also known as vitamin A palmitate, it is the mildest derivative of retinoic acid and can be used as an antioxidant in skin care. Despite bad press in recent years, it is quite safe. It is found naturally in our skin and is the most common form of vitamin A storage in mammals.
• Retinol (Stronger): This converts to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. Retinol is one of the most popular over-the-counter options, available in strengths from 0.01% to 1%. It’s less irritating than prescription retinoids but still well studied, boasting many benefits to the skin.
• Retinaldehyde (Even Stronger): Also known as retinal, it requires only one conversion step to become retinoic acid. Thought to be tolerated equally well to retinol despite being possibly stronger.
• Retinoic Acid (Strongest): Also known as tretinoin (e.g., Altreno, Atralin, Retin-A), this is the active form that binds directly to skin receptors (Retinoic Acid Receptor and Retinoid X Receptor). It is the most studied form and also the most irritating for those with sensitive skin.

Who Should Avoid Retinol?

If you have very sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema, retinol can be irritating. It’s best to start with a low percentage a few nights a week and always follow with a moisturizer, like Doctor Rogers Face Cream. Even with that, there are many of us who cannot tolerate the ingredient because of constant irritation or peeling (retinal dermatitis). Additionally, retinoids should not be used on healing skin, after a skin procedure, or if you’re planning to spend extended time in the sun without sunscreen.

Is Retinol Safe to Use During Pregnancy or Nursing?

Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding due to concerns around elevated vitamin A levels, which have been linked to birth defects in oral forms like Accutane. Pregnancy also increases skin sensitivity, further increasing the risk of irritation. As topical retinoids have not been extensively studied in pregnant women, the American Academy of Dermatology supports these precautions. 

What to Use if Retinol Isn’t an Option?

Retinol is not for everyone and it is ok not to use it. There are excellent alternatives that work in similar ways to improve our skin. Lets review:

1. Bakuchiol: A Plant-Derived Retinoid Alternative

While bakuchiol is not a retinoid, it offers similar anti-aging benefits. Derived from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant, bakuchiol promotes collagen production and cell turnover and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It works through retinoic acid receptors and other pathways to improve skin, reducing wrinkles, enhancing tone, and addressing acne—all with less irritation than retinol.

Key Advantages of Bakuchiol

• • Effective: Studies show bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol in reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and hypermigmentaiton. 
  • Sun Safe: Bakuchiol is stable in air and sunlight and not known to make skin more sun-sensitive but, as with any skincare actives, daily sunscreen is still recommended.
  • Better tolerated: In clinical studies, retinol caused more stinging and facial skin caling than bakuchiol. 
  • Additional benefits: It is also an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory making it a great choice for sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema. 

A 12-week study comparing 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol found similar improvements in skin, but retinol users experienced more irritation.

2. Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a powerful and well-tolerated chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells, improve skin tone, and boost hydration. It is the most effective and well-researched of the AHAs, offering numerous benefits:

• • Cell Turnover: Increases cell turnover and prevents skin thinning and improves fine lines.
  • Hyperpigmentation: Lightens dark spots and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
  • Acne: Clears Comedonal acne (both whiteheads and blackheads).
  • Plumps skin: Boosts hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.

3. Other Forms of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids)

• • Examples include Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Gluconolactone. These are gentler alternatives to glycolic acid, offering mild exfoliation and hydration of the top layers of the skin leaving it plump and smooth.

Based on all this data, and conversations with thousands of my patients about their night turnover needs, I decided to make my repair treatment, Doctor Rogers Night Repair Treatment retinol-free. It's well-tolerated while still being extremely powerful and  reverses the signs of aging, builds collagen, and improves skin texture. Its active ingredients are:

• 0.5% Bakuchiol: A retinol alternative able to promote collagen production, diminish wrinkles, improve elasticity, and smooth texture like retinol but without the irritation.
• 5% Glycolic Acid: The most effective and well-researched form of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), able to remove dead skin, activate cell turnover, improve brown spots and increase hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.
• 5% Gluconolactone: A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is a gentle exfoliant and humectant able to plump skin and improve tone and texture for a glass like finish.

These actives are delivered to the skin in a hydrating and skin-supportive formula packed with squalane - a key component of our natural skin moisturizing factor - and glycerin - a powerful humectant. They work together to support the skin and make this powerful repair treatment better tolerated by sensitive skin. 

No matter what you choose for your repair treatment, cell turnover, exfoliation for sun damage correction and texture improvement, remember it will take time and consistency before you see results. Learn more about your ideal morning and evening skin care regimen here.